A Chill Breakfast at the Hot Springs

Misty morning on the Snake River

Breakfast on the Snake River, with a merman in the hot spring.

We are winding down our time in Wyoming and eager to take advantage of what we will miss, like the nearby hot springs.

The magnificent terrain of Wyoming holds many hidden treasures. Not far from us, about halfway up the canyon on the way to Jackson, there is a commercial hot spring complex named Astoria. The name derives from the Astorians, representatives from John Jacob Astor’s American Fur Company, who traveled west to find a trading post on the Columbia River and came to the area in 1811. Guided by the local Shoshoni tribe to take Teton Pass on their quest to the west, the Astorians continued, leaving their name as their calling card.

The Astoria Hot Springs now has man-made soaking pools, locker rooms with showers, snack and beverage options, and oversight. The pools, which look like regular swimming pools, are fed with hot water from the river and maintained impeccably. It’s a fun experience, well-used by locals and tourists alike, and the $25 entry fee ($18 for locals) is worth it for all the amenities.

The hike to the hot springs is precipitous.

But across the river from those tame hot springs, there are wild hot springs that you can hike down to and enjoy for free. There is no oversight, no changing area, and a steep and muddy slope to maneuver, but the payoff is worth it.

You are in the wild. You are enjoying the waters like the natives did when they came to help the Astorians. You are at the river’s edge, and it is racing, but your pool is like a bubbling warm bath, with steam rising. It is a great way to start the day.

The pools are clustered and built up with rocks to keep the hot water from reaching the fast-moving river. Geese flap and honk overhead, and an occasional eagle swoops through the canyon, looking for breakfast.

A quiet time at the hot springs in the morning before the crowd rolls in.

The wild springs are increasingly popular, and others troop in past you to look for their perfect spot. It is first come, first to soak. But people are courteous and enjoy sharing the experience with other like-minded adventure seekers. Yesterday, John went to the springs midday and ran into three young men from France on holiday. They couldn’t believe how hot the springs were. But when you get hot, you dive into the river (if you are John), which he demonstrated.

For our morning excursion, I made some bagels using the Skinnytaste recipe. These are not authentic chewy bagels, but delicious and biscuit-like with a tender crumb. And they go together very quickly, which is a big plus for a morning bread. I also had some candied salmon on hand that Rose brought back from Canada last week, so I smashed that into some cream cheese with dill and lemon zest. It was a perfect al fresco breakfast with a great big coffee in an insulated hipster cup.

Whatever the day brings, I am fortified after my morning meditation in the bliss of steam and water, feeling the energy of this rare earth.

Not really true chewy bagels, this version is tasty, tender, and quick!

“Biscuit” Bagels

This recipe is adapted from the Skinnytaste website, with some slight alterations because I didn’t have exactly what it called for. I will record my variation here, and if you want to check out the original, click on the link.

1 cup AP flour (I would have liked to use part whole wheat flour, but I was out of it)

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon table salt (because I was out of Kosher salt)

½ cup plain yogurt, Greek or Icelandic style (I used our local Shumway Farms Skyr)

½ cup sour cream (because I didn’t have enough yogurt, and it worked out fine—maybe better but less “skinny”)

One egg, beaten

Toppings of your choice (I used almost an entire jar of Trader Joe’s Everything Bagel seasoning)

Preheat oven to 375°F. Place a sheet of parchment paper on a baking tray. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt to a bowl and stir with a fork. Add in the yogurt and sour cream (or all yogurt) and stir with a fork until it looks like a shaggy mix.

Dust your flat work surface with flour, then spill the contents of the bowl out. Press it all into a cohesive mound and knead until the dough is not sticky.

Divide the dough into 6 pieces and shape into bagels. You can roll the piece into a short rope that you connect or you can make a ball and skewer your finger in the center to make the hole. The dough pieces will look a little rough but look better when you coat them.

Place your topping on a small plate. Have your beaten egg at hand with a pastry brush. When all the dough pieces are shaped, brush each piece on both sides with beaten egg (or egg white) and place on the plate with the topping, turning it gently to coat both top and bottom. Carefully shape the bagel as you do this and then place the coated bagel on the prepared baking tray.

Bake for 20-25 minutes, until lightly golden brown. Allow to cool for 15 minutes before trying to slice them.

The making goes together very quickly.

Candied Salmon Shmear

4 ounces cream cheese, softened

2 ounces smoked or candied salmon

A few sprigs of dill, snipped with scissors

½ teaspoon lemon zest

Spread the cream cheese around in a small bowl and add the flaked or crumbled salmon, the dill, and the lemon zest. Stir to combine.

My Schmear used candied salmon but any smoked salmon would do.

A breakfast for champions of wildness.