Escape to the Cape

Cape Breton is the jaunty cap of Nova Scotia

Scallops with Olive Tapenade and Goat Cheese at the Yacht Club in Baddeck.

The ferry from Prince Edward Island to Cape Breton in Nova Scotia was a quick ride. The day was a bit stormy, and the gray skies harkened back to the seafaring voyagers who used that passage and didn’t have the luxury of a latte and a ginger cookie on their transport. It was appropriate weather for entering what the Native Mi’kmaq population calls Unama'kik, which translates to Land of Fog.

Once we landed, we made a beeline to the Fortress of Louisbourg, which is on the northeastern coast. On the way, we had a great conversation with a Cape Breton resident who gave us some tips about what to see to enrich our trip. Debbie grew up in Ridgeway, PA, but lives in Cape Breton in the summer and on the North Carolina coast in the winter, near her daughter. Her Acadian roots in Cape Breton date back to colonial times, and she shared with us the history of the area, including the expulsion of French Catholics in 1755 when the British moved into the region. I had heard of that terrible diaspora before, on the other end, at a museum in Lafayette, Louisiana. Now I've learned how it all happened, thanks to a book Debbie recommended, which we downloaded and listened to: The Great and Noble Scheme.

The Fortress of Louisbourg is a living history museum that depicts a French settlement from the 1700's on the easternmost coast of Cape Breton.

We roamed the reconstructed grounds, engaging with many of the friendly staff dressed in period costume. The fortress was closing down, and we were all ushered to the seawall for the grand finale—a volley of cannon fire. After our ear-splitting send-off, the fortress locked down tight, and we motored over to Baddeck to our hotel on the coast of the tidal estuary in the center of Cape Breton, the Bras d’Or Lake or Arms of Gold, essentially an inland sea. The view from our room of the lake was beautiful, but we hurried out to find dinner in Baddeck and found it at the dock. Yes, more seafood.

Scallops and mussels from the surrounding waters of Cape Breton.

The next day, we went for coffee to a charming bakery and coffee shop in the village, the Highwheeler Café. We weren’t all tourists, and the local folk were friendly and helpful in suggesting various routes.

The baked goods at the Highwheeler Cafe in Baddeck offered an assortment of local delicacies, like Cape Breton Oat Cakes and Porridge Bread.

The Cabot Trail circumnavigates the top part of the island and provides many stunning views of rocky beaches and wooded uplands along the coast.

The Ingonish Beach area is fully developed for tourism, with the stately Keltic Lodge's rose gardens and pleasant viewing areas. Signs in the region are bilingual--English and Gaelic.

It’s hard to comprehend the majesty of the tidal waters that surround and nourish the islands of the Maritimes. There is always movement, a steady push and pull of water that seems gradual at the water’s edge but builds to heights that literally float the boats that dot the shorelines around the perimeter. It’s a living organism filled with creatures that filter and clean the waters, an awe-inspiring, immersive experience. We did not see any whales or seals on our trip, but many boat excursions will take you out to see those more magnificent creatures. I was happy to focus on the little molluscs and the seaweeds.

Poutine—as ubiquitous as our nachos. And about as (un)healthy

I did have one dish in our travels around Cape Breton that was not seafood—poutine. We stopped at a little restaurant with a view for lunch. I had never had it, and I don’t ever have to have it again—French fries with cheese curds and brown gravy (definitely from a can)—once and dunce. I had a mediocre BLT and John had a grilled haddock sandwich that came with even more fries.

We didn’t have to have dinner after such a filling lunch. We wound our way back down around the lake and stopped at several beaches along the way. One seaside park had a saltwater beach and a freshwater lake right behind the rocky shore.

Water water everywhere, both salt and fresh.

The Scottish presence is strong on Cape Breton and underscored with Gaelic signs and flyers about dances held in repurposed churches that grace every town and village. One little shop made it very clear.

The Gaelic tradition is alive and well on Cape Breton and celebrations/dances in old churches are very common.

While driving we also listened to Mike Myers’ audio book Canada! which gave us a perspective on the Canadian psyche—and sense of humor.