Then and Now

Dining Out in Centre County, PA

Belle City Bites is a food truck owned and operated by Justin Leiter, a former sous chef who worked with executive chef and co-owner Courtney Confer at the Gamble Mill in Bellefonte. After the Gamble Mill owners sold the restaurant in 2008, Leiter eventually moved on to his own restaurant in Pleasant Gap, The Red Horse Tavern. The truck is popular at University Wine Company and at Boal City Brewing as well as many other locations around Centre County.

Once Upon a Time, when you went out to dine, you were greeted at the entry to a dining room, escorted to your table, and sometimes a maître d’ even pulled out your chair to seat you. There was a tablecloth, linen napkins, and silver and glassware arranged in a particular order. You ordered an appetizer, entrée, salad, and dessert. Your items were delivered sequentially and cleared as you wiped the china plate with the last bit of bread from your bread plate. You received a bill at the end of your meal and paid the server on your way out, adding a gratuity based on the attention you received and your satisfaction with the food. You were bid goodbye as you departed and were asked how you enjoyed your dinner.

That was then; this is now. You arrive at the brewery, winery, distillery, cidery of your choice and go directly to the bar where you place your order, which is handed to you by the bartender. You find yourself a table and establish a zone for yourself. You walk to the edge of the property and see which food truck is there that day and place an order there and pay for it before you see any of your food. You are told to come back in a little while to pick up your order, so you go back to your zone or hover to retrieve your hot food and carry it to your table, remembering to pick up paper napkins and plastic utensils. You eat at the table, from paper plates or boxes, taking care not to ingest any of the paper if your item is saucy and soaks through

A Gamble Mill reunion photo before they closed showed current and former employees with their families. Justin Leiter and Courtney Confer are far left in the photo, standing behind co-owner Jeanne Murphy who is seated. No one got in or out of that restaurant without Jeanne Murphy greeting them when they arrived and making sure they were satisfied when they left.

Then: Justin Leiter worked with executive chef Courtney Confer for 10 years at the Mill and for another 10 years once he branched out at the Red Horse, with Courtney’s mentorship.

Now: Courtney Confer is retired and Justin Leiter runs the Belle City Bites food truck with many of the same recipes that were developed at the Gamble Mill and at the Red Horse.

There are scores of wonderful food trucks these days and Belle City Bites is a great one. I admire these entrepreneurs that turn out beautiful and delicious food from tight quarters. It’s a miracle, really. But I’m old and grew up in the restaurant industry with a mother who was a professional waitress. The restaurant industry was going full tilt from the 1950’s until 2020 when it came to an abrupt halt.

The glory days of the Gamble Mill included collaborative dinners with dignitaries like French chef Jacques Pepin and Le Bec Fin's Georges Perrier.

It’s a bygone era. The cost of staffing and running a full-service, dine-in restaurant is huge. The food truck option allows many more talented chefs to get into the game. I understand. But I miss the old days, especially when I am eating delicious food that deserves to be savored and not just gobbled.

Fine dining still exists but the price is high.  A recent dinner at Chez Panisse in Berkeley looked like the good old days. The crystal was polished, the food was impeccable, and the service was flawless. But it is unaffordable for most.

Chez Panisse in Berkeley maintains a high standard for fine dining--if you can get a reservation.

We all thank Covid or blame Covid for many things. Shutting down restaurant dining for years put many independents—and chains—out of business. But that demise led to a new wave. Support your favorite food truck—just bring your own linens, tableware, and maybe a server.  

Justin Leiter at Big Spring Spirits in Bellefonte. The energetic chef is adding this property to his roster. The Belle City Bites truck will still be rolling. Check their FaceBook page for updates.